The Artist Without Two

To Thunder Cape

There he lies, sleeping, sleeping

while the waters softly murmur

while the darkness, creeping, creeping

Steals upon the Northern Shore

Will he rise, leaping, leaping

With a bolt of jagged thunder

With a wild wind sweeping, sweeping

Down upon the Northern Shore?

Ye, he rises. leaping, leering

With his thunder bolt a searing

Fire forest, fire all

The Northland belches a fiery pall

The flames, they writhe and leap to fall

Smoldering at the giant's knees

As there he bends among his trees.

Hail then the wild wind heavy with cloud

To split wide the sky - tear open the shroud.

Black is the mountain -dank is the air,

Hark, to the East! Look, over there!

Up sun, rise, peeping, peeping

Send the darkness leaping, leaping.

Fast he flies, weeping, weeping,

For his body, seeping, seeping,

Fades into the Northern Land.

Down he lies, sleeping, sleeping,

With his mild wind sweeping, sweeping,

Gently 'cross the Northern Shore.

Photos of Sleeping Giant by B. Brill, August 2011

Poem Author: B. Brill, 1965

Published in : Betty Brill's Cry At The Edge Of Forever, PGI 2005

THE ROMANCE OF PAPER

Mr. Canada

John Fisher 1912 - 1981

A Broadcaster and traveling reporter.

He aired his broadcasts three times a week as "John Fisher Reports"  He called his scripts "pride builders' as he reported on the wonders of Canada as he found it from 1943 to 1955.

In 1949 he zeroed in on the Abitibi operations from Lake Nipigon to Port Arthur (now Thunder Bay).
The boats and the wood you saw in Business Was Booming post  could have been part of this scenario.

I will say it is a colourful rendition of lake operations.  Note the announcer's build-up...the part about care of the forests. This write up came from Bob Matchett's family to the Nipigon Museum Archives.

The People's Paper

Canada, March 16, 1949

John Fisher Scans:

"Pretty Catty"

These men are rough and tough. They boss rivers. They run the rapids and shout defiance at the world's biggest fresh water lake. They know the Sleeping Giant, too. He-men these, and yet the finest compliment you can pay them is to say "Pretty Catty".

ANNOUNCER'S INTRODUCTION:  Extra! The People's Paper, a radio edition for your entertainment.  The People's Paper headlining John Fisher, your favourite story teller, with true tales about you and your friends.

Tonight, John Fisher takes giant strides from Lake Nipigon to Port Arthur and has a story which will give the Sleeping Giant pleasant dreams ... he talks about men who are proud to called "Catty".

And these men are part of Canada's largest family, the pulp and newsprint family ... 325,000 wage earners in mill and bush.  This great industry has an investment of over a billion dollars in mills and power plants that cannot be moved... they cannot operate without pulpwood...Therefore conservation of the forests is of vital interest to the industry.  Every Canadian pulp and paper mill is pledged to a ten point plan of forest conservation to bring about perpetual harvests from our greatest natural asset... our forests.  Canada's pulp and newsprint leaders jointly sponsor this program.  Abitibi Power and Paper ...Great Lakes Paper...Ontario Paper...Ontario-Minnesota Pulp and Paper and Spruce Falls Power and Paper.

Well in our bushlands John Fisher has found some mighty unusual men...

Extra!!

 Pretty Catty!

JOHN FISHER: We were peering out the window. We looked straight into the silver fingertip of Lake Superior. Though the haze of winter we sought the Sleeping Giant. I had seen him from the air when the steel green waters slapped at his feet in summer. Now I wanted to see him in winter dress. But Jack Frost beat me to it. He had thrown a protective haze around this sleeping giant... this great rock promontory... resembling a slumbering giant whose bulky frame guards the gateway to the boundless plains of the West.

1965 Great Lakes Lumber Sea Plane Base
Port Arthur
Sleeping Giant in mist.

In Port Arthur, Ontario, they scarcely ever sell a postcard without this dormant guardian in the background. He is a symbol of the majesty of Lake Superior.  The silhouette of this rock is the signal to water born commerce that the world's greatest inland waterway is about to stop. Here is a part of Canada where nature went on a rampage and scattered and tossed her rocky children...here the Sleeping Giant stands as the dean of mighty Superior.

It was from a window in Thunder Bay that I tried to see the Sleeping Giant...instead these in the spotless, modern mill of the Abitibi Power and Paper I heard these ancient tales and superstitions.  We could not see him...for an hour though, I listened to these Thunder Bay papermakers rave about the beauties and legends of our Lakehead country.

Sleeping Giant from Hillcrest Park, Port Arthur
now Thunder Bay.

I had been filled with the charm and bigness of Northwest Ontario.  I kept nodding approval.."Yes, this is magnificent country alright." I commented on the sunshine again which beats down summer and winter on the Twin Cities of Fort William and Port Arthur, which both stand more than 600 feet above sea level. All of a sudden as I was talking , one of the men from the Thunder Bay Paper Mill pulled me up short.   He said:"You're a Maritimer, aren't you...well you've got nothing like this down there..."

Rough, Burly, Magnificent

Now, a Maritimer may eat a lot of herring bones and codfish and so on...but, they also feed on pride...and I was ready to defend my "homeland" when the papermaker softened the blow and sparked my curiosity. "Some pretty smart fellows come out of the Maritimes," he said..." we've got some PRETTY CATTY  guys up here." By this time I was just about ready to arouse the Sleeping Giant and for to war...imagine anybody calling a Maritimer "catty". Why that's a female term...and women hate it...if you say to a woman that she's "catty" ...that's an invitation to get out the back door and stay out, but fast. There are few words in the English language that arouseth a woman's scorn as dose the label "catty". Imagine calling a man "catty"!  I soon learned in this rough, burly, magnificent land of the lakes where men are men ... I learned that to call a man "catty" was to pay him the highest complement in the roughest toughest of all games.  It is a lumberjack's word of respect and I would only call a lumberjack a "sissy" if I were in the other end of a transcontinental telephone line.

You see, that newspaper you read every day is born out of two parts.  It was processed in a great roaring mill where the machines rumbling at breathless speed take the wood...make it into a porridgy mush...turn it into running liquid and then into dry shiny paper. They call that the Mill side of operations.  At the Thunder Bay Paper Mill in Port Arthur City Limits they have one of the most modern streamlined operations in the world. In fact their grinder room is the very newest thing in paper making...They are proud of it in Port Arthur. But, there would be no mill if it were not for wood. So the other great partner in papermaking is the Woodlands Division...the fellows who are responsible for bringing rooted trees in the bush to the mills.  In other words the fraternity of lumberjacks. Canada itself owes so much to this lumberjack group.

Like A Ballet Dancer 

That serves to introduce a former Maritimer Bob Matchett.  They say he is a Pretty Catty. He only weighs 160 pounds, but, if you could see him jumping like a ballet dancer up there at Lake Helen at the mouth of the Nipigon River you'd see why he is "catty" and strong as a little bull.  Lake Helen is a long ways from the Thunder Bay mill where I tried to see the Sleeping Giant...but it's that distance that gives colour to our story of being Pretty Catty.  The Abitibi men of Thunder Bay use the familiar boom to move their logs. A boom is a great enclosure made by chaining giant boomlogs together...just like freight cars are coupled together.

  The wood floats within this linked frame of big timber...the boom is towed by a boat...a boom is really a huge cat-walk which bobs behind the boat...just like a cat that's afraid to get wet...just like a cat...as sure footed, as agile, with miraculous control of muscle.  Bob Matchett came to this tremendous Superior country looking for work in 1937.  Today, he is foreman down at Lake Helen. Quick on their feet these men, and they do their job just as quickly and as unobtrusively as the famous Black Cat in the black room. They are partners in The People's Paper.

If you ever have occasion to fly over Lake Superior in the summer, you can look down and see these floating giant golden islands of logs or rafts towed by tubby chubby tugs. (editor note - Nevermore)

Guts and Grace

As far as Port Arthur goes this story starts in Lake Nipigon...that lovely lake beloved by moose hunters and fishermen.

 On one of its many feeding rivers .. say on a frosty November day a cutter swings his axe against a tall spruce ...bites into it with bucksaw... shouts "timber"... the tree crashes and then the great odyssey begins.

 

Nipigon Historical Museum Archive Abitibi Binder

  Teamsters and caterpillar tractors haul the logs to the Ombabika River.

   Now the log sits quiet and patient upon the ice for month after month..

.until May arrives...the sun breaks the grip of ice...Mr Log is on his way. Oh, he doesn't move fast...he's jostled and jammed with thousands of others like him..

.sometimes dynamite is used to free him from the Chinese puzzle of fellow logs.  This nature-given conveyor belt of the river has its own moods and twists and currents.  The winds help him too, blow panic upon the logs... and old man sun joins the circus...sucks up the water in summer...slows the conveyor belt and even brings in the long dry summer arms of the banks to arrest the merry sail of Mr. Log.

Man Against Nature

The lumberjack swats and sweats and swears and gives Canada a vocabulary that would put Webster and Hollywood press agents to shame.  As Mr. Log on his colourful jaunt to the jaws of the mill flirts , stops and stares at obstacles, his back is pricked and prodded with sharp pike poles. His bark is scarred from the catty dance of steel boots.   Drama, colour!  Pulp and Paper is not only our biggest business...it is our most Canadian of shows.  Here is the ballet of brawn.  Here tough, rugged men do the arabesque on a floor of rolling spruce.  Here is drama with the backdrop of white water, and props taken from nature's burly and beautiful storehouse.

Pine Portage dam c. 1950
Nipigon Historical Museum Photo Archive

The stage is mighty and magnificent.  Man against nature.

The orchestral accompaniment comes from the strange company of the outdoors ... a medley of the musical silence of the bush...the drone of the mosquito...the timpani of rolling water...the throaty vengeance of the frog...the swish of the trees...the call of the wilds...and thrown upon this scene are the dimensions of smell...the nostalgic smell of slow rot and quick growth...and the dimensions of colour...floral and faunal.  Sunset and sunrise peeking through the screen of green.

And Canada cries for expression in its personality! 

And the newsboy calls "paper" on corners rancid with friction-mad rubber burnt gasoline and chocked with crowds.  And newspapers are the carriers of democracy. True! Liberty must march with newsprint or die.  The purveyor of liberty is born not amid the thundering thousands, but deep within the kingdom of trees. Drama? Colour? Story?  Where art thou, Mr. Canadian dramatist?  Point thy pen to the pageant of paper and thou will write pungent prose.

Back to Mr. Log

Mr. Log has come down the river .  With thousands he takes rest in the storage reserves on Lake Nipigon. The tugs wait for the winds to blow him over and into the V shaped mouth of the booms which trails behind them. When the winds blow and logs follow, catty men like Bob Matchett close the mouth of the V...turn it into an "O" and the logs are caught inside.

Top of the Fence

Chapter 1 is over for Mr. Log...he's prisoner now in a raft...and he has 60 miles to go down Lake Nipigon...towed by tugs which must be "catty" too, to run the rafts through the islands and shoals...through storm and wind on this junior Great Lake.  The Abitibi tug captains pull the giant rafts as trickily as a cat runs along the top of a board fence.  Mr. Log is still a long distance from the Sleeping Giant, whose shoulders protect the harbour of Thunder Bay Mill.

One of the dams on the Nipigon River. Pine Portage.

Downriver

At the end of Lake Nipigon is Virgin Falls... a dam and the big tumbling Nipigon River with canyon...Now Mr. Log is turned free from the raft...spilled.

Pulpwood going through. Pine Portage.

..let run over the dam...down, down, down stream...over more dams...through rapids...sometimes he is tamed and controlled by booms across the face of the river...and all the way lumberjacks bully him...keep him moving until he reaches another storage pond in Helen Lake.  Again he must be nipped into a raft and caught in the tear- drop "O" shape of booms.  And here nimble-footed catty Bob Matchett dances on his back and helps ready him for the biggest ride of all...across sometimes surly Lake Superior...and up to the Thunder Bay mill where Abitibi employees look out at the Sleeping Giant. And in the office files of Port Arthur Woodlands Division are listed the tens...hundreds of thousands spent on improving his journey...money spent on dams, booms, piers, dredging, cleaning banks, dynamiting.

And in the handsome brick building of the Abitibi Thunder Bay mill in Port Arthur where I tried to see the Sleeping Giant...here in his last resting place, Mr. Log sees stenographers...pretty ones too...who would throw their inkwells at you if you called them "catty". Yet, such is the romance of paper that their very jobs depend on men ...rough, tough men hundreds of miles away who boss the rivers and float their golden boom islands past the feet of the Sleeping Giant...men who are flattered when you say to them: "Pretty Catty".

CARIBOU SPECIAL ON THE NIPIGON RIVER

Special transportation, Michael Friday getting a lift by a caribou on Nipigon River.

Nipigon Historical Museum Photo Archive Everett Collection
nmp 5062

Caribou : The Federal Strategy August 26, 2011

http://www.registrelep-sararegistry.gc.ca/document/default_e.cfm?documentID=2253

This is the Canadian Federal Caribou Strategy on their Species at Risk Site for review and comment.

The ENGO's are rallying , they say 2.5 million square Kilometres is not enough.

SAY IT AIN'T SO, JOE

In 1984-85 twenty point seven million cubic metres of wood was harvested in Ontario. If it was stacked one metre high by one metre wide that pile would cross Canada three times.

"The volume of wood lost because of insects and disease each year in Ontario's forests exceed the volume harvested ." Hon. Vincent G. Kerrio, Minister, MNR 1986

In 1986 at least 20 Northern Ontario communities were forest industry dependent, in whole or in part.


Ontario had 120 operating pulp and paper mills, and 160,000 people working directly or indirectly for the forest industries in 1986.

In 2004 the number of direct jobs had dropped to 50,000. By 2009 we were at 27,500 jobs.

In 2010 we had seven operating Pulp and Paper Mills in Ontario. - Dryden, Espanola, Fort Frances, Iroquois Falls, Kapuskasing, Thunder Bay and Trenton. 

Job loss was more than economic, it undermined the worker's ideas of self-reliance, hard work and independence.

With the loss of the mills comes the loss of the industrial tax base. Just how desperate these towns are has surfaced this last year as they entertain thoughts of Nuclear Waste Storage.

In 2004 I was randomly selected by the Canadian Policy Research Networks, an independent, policy think-tank based in Ottawa, to take part in a Citizen's Dialogue on Management of Used Nuclear Fuel in Canada, to be held in Thunder Bay on February 14.  The CPRN was asked to lead these dialogues by the Nuclear Waste Management Organization. The NWMO was created in 2002 mandated to recommend to the Federal Government a long term approach for managing the used Nuclear Fuel produced by Canada. One other person from Nipigon was also selected.

We were not asked to make technical decisions but to define our expectations with respect to safe and effective management of the used fuel. We were given a list of the nine key organizations involved in managing nuclear fuel in Canada, but not as a flow chart that we could use to plot responsibilities.  We were given some information on three technical methods to be used: disposal, storage and treatment.

Disposal means to isolate used fuel from humans and the environment, with no intention of retrieval. Storage means to maintain the used fuel in a way that will allow access for retrieval of future use. Treatment is to change the characteristics of used fuel, to reprocess it for further use or to reduce the toxicity / hazard.

Through our group conversations we drew upon the diversity of points of view to develop insight and build a common ground in our approach to four scenarios.

• Scenario 1 - A long-term management will be adopted now using today's knowledge and leaving little responsibility to the future generations.
• Scenario 2 - Existing storage is good for many years let the future generations come up with new technology to make a better informed decision.
• Scenario 3 - The government should take responsibility and be held accountable.
• Scenario 4 - Affected communities and civil society expect to have a voice in long-term decisions about their future health, safety and environment.

We pooled the results of the group discussions of those four scenarios and came up with our vision for long-term management of Used Nuclear Fuel that shared the rights and responsibilities across generations and would ensure confidence and trust in that approach.

• We want a kind of approach that would allow us to keep the decision open, rather than store the used fuel permanently. We need an ongoing management of it.
• We don't want deep disposal in the North. Keep the material on site where it is now, until a better solution can be found.
• There is immediacy to the issue - don't delay taking action.
• WE need more research and knowledge to find options to manage used fuel better
• Allow future generations flexibility to change decisions if other technology or uses for used fuel are found.
• Elected government officials need to implement and enforce the decision but citizens/communities should be part of making the decision.
• Affected communities should have more say and get some assistance to help them understand what is involved for them.
• The approach needs to give priority to public health, safety and security for this generation and future generations.

This vision was the basis for the afternoon group dialogues.  We were asked to consider what choices we are prepared to make to move us towards the kind of approach we want for managing used nuclear fuel in Canada over the long-term. Then the four groups pooled their key measures and actions to find similarities and differences in their approach. Topping that list was phasing out Nuclear power generation followed by Alternative power research, managing spent fuel on site as it is now, education on all levels, organization of groups for action, more research, policy changes that were Public driven, citizen coalitions, no transporting of used fuel bundles , accountability, public forums, money for the above actions, proper financial accounting and report openly to all citizens.

I think we said a lot.

I was so intrigued by the demand that no used fuel bundles be transported that I wrote Michael Gravelle, M.P.P., with a copy to Joe Comuzzi, M.P., the next day.  You see, Canada had been experimenting with underground storage of used fuel bundles at a location just across the Manitoba border and it looked like that would be a prime site, even though the concept of deep geological disposal in stable rock formations had just been found totally unacceptable to a group of random citizens who lived on that rock.

Thunder Bay had long ago declared itself a Nuclear Free Zone.  Likely a few other places between the Reactors and the Manitoba border were too.

My question to Michael and Joe was: "Can the Federal or Provincial government over-ride the Nuclear Free Zone designation of certain communities if they are in the economic path of transporting used Nuclear Fuel?"

Michael replied on March 31, 2004.  He was pleased I had sent the same letter to M.P. Joe Comuzzi. Michael had forwarded my letter to the Minister of Energy for Ontario. In short order I got his answer, which being a provincial answer to a federal problem was phrased in a neat way.

"If the city had a By-law that shut the street lights off at seven o'clock and the government needed them on at nine - the lights would go on."

No word from Joe.

A federal election came and went with quite a bit of newspaper coverage on the nuclear issue.

No word from Joe.

2006 has passed and the NWMO has handed in its Final Report to the federal government for review and decision for the long-term management of Nuclear Fuel Waste.

2010 Northern Ontario communities are being courted.

Will it be dumped on us?

Say it ain't so, Joe!

BUSINESS WAS BOOMING

Photographs: R. Mikkola Collection, Nipigon Historical Museum Archives. 

The Nipigon River Drive ended in 1973.

MOZAKAMA BAY

Now you know why we call it KAMA. 

700  foot diabase -capped mesas and cuestas rising out of Superior.

Sibley sedimentary rocks.

Peregrine Falcons now nest in these cliffs.

A sequence of flat-laying, pale sandstone beds

alternating with thin strata of brick-red impure dolomites

and dolomite limestones.

The dark colours are fine grained diabase sills.



Lying in wait.

A quiet afternoon on the shore of Mozakama Bay, Aug 25,2011.



I guess I was trying to see around this rare reed-bed and tilted my camera.

Geology information from:

Geology and Scenery North Shore of Lake Superior 

by E.G. Pye

Geological Guide Book No. 2 

 Ontario Department of Mines 1969

NIPIGON HASN'T ALWAYS BEEN JUST A PRETTY PLACE

NIPIGON NESTLED IN NATURE

Over-looking the Lagoon with the CNR causeway
that cut off the flow curve of the Nipigon River a hundred years ago.
 Now the CNR has pulled their tracks , will the causeway stay?

Once there was some heavy action going on two miles down river, on Vert Island and even on Cooke Point on the south shore of Lake Nipigon.

These are the Nipigon Bay Islands looking from Kama Hill 20 km East of Nipigon. 
The smoke of the Red Rock mill is just visible 
a quarter of the way in from the right of the photo.
Taken with trusty Brownie 126 in 1965.

Document 733, Canada Dept. of Mines, Canadian Limestones for Building Purposes, page 96, describes our area limestone as being of three types:

1. very hard, siliceous stone
2. soft, marly, very impure dolomite, usually red in colour, which weathers readily to a shaly mass
   
   
3. light, grey, very fine-grained dolomite usually possessing a green tint and much of it mottled with red

The third kind was the best but its helter skelter locations have kept it relatively unused. In 1931 a quarry opened on Cooke Point but didn't run long.

A small amount of building stone of the number one variety was quarried from the East side of the Nipigon River two miles below the town-site. This stone was too hard for general building purposes.

Nipigon River 1965 from saw mill site.

T.L. Tanton's memoir 167, the Geological Survey of Canada 1931, describes the limestone of the Sibley series suitable for ornamental building stone, as being found near the mouth of the Nipigon River.  The limestone was thinly inter laminated with red, purple, and green shaly material. Prior to  1919, an ornamental building stone known as Nipigon Marble, was produced from a quarry on the East shore.

Directly across from the saw mill site on Nipigon River.
 Looking at the East side. 1965

Vert Island had a sandstone quarry and it was abandoned in 1885.

Islands in the stream.

Further documentation of the limestone deposit two miles below Nipigon was made in, Canada Dept. of Mines and Resources, Limestones of Canada, Part IV, No. 781, page 339, under the heading of Nipigon River.

Coming up on the 'picture rocks'.

It reads thus: " Two miles below Nipigon Village, hard, siliceous Precambrian limestone is exposed on both sides of the Nipigon River, but principally on the east side where a small quarry for building stone was at one time opened.  At the site of the quarry a thickness of 43 feet of the limestone, dipping southerly at a low angle, is exposed above the water. A short distance inland it is overlain by a sill of trap rock 175 feet thick.

The succession of beds is as follows:

• 10 feet thickly bedded, shaly, dark grey.magnesian limestone weathering to a greenish grey.
  




These are the pictograph rocks in Nipigon Bay.


 
• 15 feet purplish and dark greenish grey, very hard cherty dolomite in beds up to one foot thick, that weathers differently.
• 4 to 6 inches of hard, green and purple shale,
• 19 feet magnesian limestone of similar appearance to that above but which is less hard and siliceous. the beds are up to 2 feet in thickness and are wavy with thin beds of softer limestone between. Some are mottled with dark purple patches clouded with pink and green.

It was mainly these lower beds that were quarried

Back up River toward Nipigon, 1991, the big power line crosses the river,
not visible in the 1965 photo.
We still have to cross the 49th parallel before we get back to the dock.


-

Today, in 2011, most of the area we have been talking about is off limits.

The Great Lakes Heritage Coast,

The Thunder Bay Field Naturalists,

The National Marine Conservation Area -

all carry a do not use mandate.

PRISTINE, WE AIN'T

MOVING ON WOOD

Between Chapleau and the Manitoba border from 1875  to 1930, two billion board feet of ties were produced.

Between 1870 and 1930 one million pile logs (pilings) were cut which would be another two hundred million board feet.

When the wood was rafted on Lake Superior, the common  boom size was around 10,000 cords of pulpwood, close to one million board feet.




The Tie-Cutter
Ties were cut at the Nipigon Great Lakes Lumber and Shipping sawmill
until mid 1960".
When paper mill workers were making a little under 12 dollars a day with an hourly wage,
sawmill gangs were pulling in near 30 dollars a day in piece-work.
So many cents per tie and a couple dollars a thousand board feet for grain door lumber.
When logs were large they could get a few boards off each log ,
 this lumber was used to cover the cracks in the grain car doors,
 hence the name grain door lumber.



This is not the Nipigon bridge, but it illustrates the use of wood in the early 1880's.
Trestle and tie wood. 
Tamarack had a good longevity and was the wood of choice for ties.
Once wood preserving started the choice expanded to jack pine and spruces,
which was a good thing as the Larch sawfly took out the tamarack in the 1890's

Lumber going East.
The Nipigon Water tower was taken down very early 1970's.

This is the Nipigon River Bridge for the Canadian Pacific Railway
as it tried to span the continent.
Troops going out to the Riel Rebellion had to cross over the ice to Red Rock
 to catch the western train.
 Coming home a few weeks later they rode across the newly finished bridge.

The Little Mill on the Nipigon River downstream of the townsite.
It made baled pulp.
It had about a forty year history off and on.
 Demolished by the early nineteen sixties.
Now prime birding area on the Nipigon- Red Rock Hiking Trail.

After the timber bridges they put in the permanent ones
using the local granite and sandstone, and steel,
but they still used wood ties for the rails to sit on.
So well was the Nipigon River Bridge built that
the granite and sandstone pillars
 withstood over a hundred years of train traffic 
and only needed a facade of cement to protect them
from another century of air borne contaminents.

 WOULD YOU BELIEVE IT,

THEY (ENGO'S) ARE TALKING OF CREATING A CERTIFICATION PROGRAM

FOR QUARRIES AND PITS

ALONG THE LINE OF F.S.C. IN FORESTRY OPERATIONS

 = GREEN GRAVEL.

Photographs Nipigon Historical Museum Archives